Capri

DAY 1

GETTING TO CAPRI

I was surprised to see skyscrapers as I arrived into Naples by train, on my way to the island of Capri. To get to Capri, you have to take a boat from one of the major ports called Molo Beverello. I took a taxi to the port. The traffic was very busy in Naples and my taxi driver was a mere inch from other cars as he cut through lanes. It was as if there were no driving rules at all. He was very light-hearted which made the drive feel more fun and less stressful! But he also ended up charging me extra “for the traffic”, so the ride cost 30 Euro in total for about 15-20 minutes.

Once we arrived at the port, it was pretty easy to know where to go—the area where all the boats dock was bustling and had a restaurant or two. I read online that tickets were cheaper on-site instead of online, but the price was the same. It was 25 Euro one way for a ticket. The boat ride was a breeze, although I did think especially of my seasick friends (who would have needed a Dramamine!). There were bathrooms, seats with tables, and free Wifi.

*Expect to part at the entrance with your heavy luggage if you have any (you can pick it up on the way out— it was a little chaotic but the only option).

I sat on the left side of the boat and got a stunning view of Capri as I rode into the port. When we offloaded from the boat it was very crowded. Because there was only one sidewalk that encapsulated the port, lines were queued up waiting for their boats to arrive, while hundreds of other people were getting off their boats at the same time. I swerved through the crowd to the ticket office on the right where I bought a handful of public bus tickets, then stood in the queued line to head to Anacapri.

I have never been on a bus that scaled the side of a mountain. What a spectacular view it offered, albeit surprising at first glance (and every glance as we made our way up). The roads were so tight I could have high-fived another car passing us. Since there were no maps or signs on the bus (hello Italian trend), it was hard to discern where to signal for a stop. Luckily, many people got off at the main stop in Anacapri.

I met my host in front of a church where he led me through a winding path to my gated Airbnb. The space was absolutely dreamy.

I booked this space in September for my trip in May of the following year at 100/night.

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DINNER IN A LEMON GROVE

When I plan trips, I spend a lot of time researching on Pinterest for the best food experiences and then I pin them to a Guide in my Apple Maps app. This restaurant, La Zagara, was close to my Airbnb and sounded way too incredible to pass up. Boy was I correct- every single thing about this meal was perfect. I had a delicious glass of red wine which paired perfectly with the rich, beef-stuffed pasta and complimentary housemade bread. I was also served by several incredibly handsome Italians. It was Bellisimo.

DAY 2

CHASING AFTER A VIEW

The next morning I stopped by a great cafe in Anacapri for a cappuccino and pastry (about 10 Euro), then hopped on a bus to the center of Capri. While on the bus I met an awesome couple from Brazil who shared their hotel map of the island with me. I took a picture for good measure and ended up joining them to find Via Krupp, a road built into a cliffside in the early 1900s. Unfortunately due to weather, the gardens overlooking the site were closed. We used a map to find an alternative view of the cliffside. There were many steps and steep hills to achieve this fete, but it ended with an excellent view of the Faraglioni, so it was worth it.

We ended the day having a meal in Capri, just on the edge of the overlook in the center of town, while waiting out the downpour that fell as we returned to the main square. While the view from this restaurant was perfect, I cannot recommend the food. It was overpriced and not very good. I headed back to Anacapri and wandered around the shops. I stopped by a restaurant that served a limoncello drink inside of a giant lemon. Even though I am not a massive fan of limoncello, it felt like a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

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DAY 3

A CLIFFSIDE ADVENTURE TO A LIGHTHOUSE

According to the locals, the rain we were experiencing was uncharacteristic for the month of May. It definitely could have put a literal damper on things if I didn’t have an apartment with a beautiful view. So when the rain let up on my second day in Capri, I immediately headed outside with my map photo on a quest to find the Faro di Punta Carena lighthouse. Although you can take a bus to get there, I was feeling rather adventurous with the sun showing its beautiful face.

I walked on an inconspicuous road just next to the chairlift in Anacapri. The area felt very rural as many of the houses were surrounded by grape vines and other homegrown vegetation. At the end of this road was an overlook called Belvedere della Migliara.

From here, the path to the lighthouse (as seen on the map) became very unclear. I started walking toward a cluster of houses and made a right turn- which dead-ended into a yard of high grass. I turned around and went back around another house, down what looked like a dirt driveway, but it was in fact the trail. The path was very rocky and I instantly felt like a hobbit.

I followed “the trail”, after ending up in a second field of high grass, to the most insane set of stairs I have ever seen. The path was directly down, with a view of the lighthouse the whole way. I thought about how many generations ago these steps were created, how many thousands of people have used them, and how hard it must have been to build them.

The stairs surprisingly ended on a busy road, where I had to walk along the gutter around a bend. I was tempted to continue taking a second trail instead of the road, but I wasn’t sure if it would lead to the lighthouse or connect to the trail of forts around the island.

The road ended with a spectacular scene: a lighthouse straight ahead, and a path to Lido del Faro where I relaxed with a perfect drink in my hand.

Day 4

DAY TRIP TO POSITANO

It was incredibly difficult to choose which Amalfi coast town to visit for the day, but Positano’s charm won me over. I headed to Capri’s port to hop on the boat, immediately thankful I arrived early. Sitting on the left side of the boat gets you the best view as you drive past the immaculate hillsides of the coast. Because the port in Positano is so small, we had to wait in the water for about 30min-1hr. The boat rocking was definitely intense at this point

Once we offloaded, I wandered the streets to find a few of the restaurants I had pinned on my map. Positano is surprisingly small and easy to navigate through. There are only a few paths total so it is hard to get lost. I chose to eat at a delicious restaurant that served fresh, farm-to-table food. Though my dish was not especially Italian, I wish I could eat it weekly for dinner.

After a few hours of wandering, I was ready to head back to my apartment to rest my feet. It was then that I discovered Anacapri’s “best kept secret”- Pizzeria Aumm Aumm. The pizza was not only perfect but it was the most affordable meal on the island (8 Euro). I also grabbed a Sorbetto di Limone from Bar Grotta Azzurra.

Day 5

AN EPIC LAST DAY

Because of the rain, the prized kayak trip I planned was rescheduled for my last day on the island. The trip was in the afternoon, so I headed back to Via Krupp to soak in the deep blue waters and ingenious invention to access the water along the steep cliff. After taking in the view, I ate a mouth-watering meal overlooking the ocean.

After eating, I loaded up on sunscreen, hopped on a bus, and headed down to the water for my kayaking trip. The kayaking business, Capri Hydro, was located in Marina Piccola di Capri. There were dozens of people camped out on the beach with their towels and bathing suits. We slipped into our kayaks and followed the guides through some of the caves along the coast. It was fun to see the restaurant where I had lunch from the water.

After all of the rowing, I craved meatballs. I stopped at a sweet corner spot near my Airbnb called L’Angolo Del Gusto. My last meal in Anacapri was bittersweet. I was just starting to feel settled after 5 days on the island, but was also missing home increasingly. I packed up and headed back to Naples for a few more days of pizza and pasta before heading back to Ohio.

NOTES ON TRANSPORTATION 

In order to get to the island of Capri, you have to take a boat from Naples (or other Amalfi coast ports). The port in Naples was really easy to leave from, but you cannot walk from the train station as easily as it seems on the map. The road outside of the port is really busy, so I would recommend taking a cab (I negotiated 25 euro, but he increased it because of traffic by the time we got to the port). Buying tickets in advance didn’t seem of any benefit, though what I read online is that ticket prices can change by the day. The trip was quick and easy- though be ready to part with your luggage as you board the boat and then wade in a line to retrieve it as you leave. They weren’t really secured, so if you have a suitcase with a lock, I would recommend using it. 

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Hopping around Capri and Anacapri was very easy, but sometimes included a bit of a wait at the bus stop. You can buy tickets in bulk from main stop to main stop. You can also buy them on the bus with Euros. It is a little tricky to identify when to get off, as the buses will just stop along the road (without any sort of bus stop area). I found people very helpful, and asked the bus driver on my first trip where I would need to get off. In Anacapri, Capri, and the Ports/Lighthouse it is pretty obvious. You can use one of the bus apps below as a helpful tool. The roads are insane but the views are beautiful and overall it was very easy to get around. 

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CITY COMPARISONS FROM MY TOUR OF ITALY

After leaving Capri, I thought “this would be the perfect place to have a Sabbatical”. This island offers both incredible rest, incredible views, and loads of adventure. I was able to snag a picture of a map that included all of the hiking trails on the island- many of the overlook points connect to each other because of the forts that were built to protect the island back in the day. Keep in mind these are like mountains so the terrain isn’t light. There are boats to other Amalfi cities like Positano and Sorrento, as well as boats to rent for self or guided excursions. Because of being surrounded by water, this stop was really unique compared to the others. A lot slower paced, but still a high amount of beauty and delicious food. It was also the most expensive, which makes sense because importing goods here is not an easy task. I would imagine import fees and paying workers folds into the increased costs.

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